Bonjour chers amis,
In the month since I last wrote this blog, we descended the Saône and Rhône rivers, and continued on the Petit Rhône, the canal Rhône à Sète, and through the middle of the étangs, or saltwater lakes near the Mediterranean. We have sailed about halfway down the Canal du Midi where we are now moored in Carcassonne for a week. There is a lot of catching up to do, 668 kilometers, and 61 locks worth!
At the end of the Saône river, which we had sailed before, we spent a wonderful week in one of our favorite cities, Lyon. There we enjoyed a visit from our Belgian friends, John and Josiane, and loved touring the old city with it’s traboules, or medieval silk houses, and their winding passage ways, and being gourmands at the many Bouchons, or lyonnais versions of brasseries. We love the port de pleasance at Lyon, which even though it was not yet open for the season allowed us to moor at the pontoons and get water and electricity. The port is at the confluence of the Rhône and the Saône, in the middle of a modern part of the city with interesting apartments and great shopping. It is closed until the first of May, but it seems that boats had been moored there all winter, with free water and electricity. It was funny to watch them all quickly depart by the morning of May 1st, so that they wouldn’t have to pay anything for the mooring.
In the month since I last wrote this blog, we descended the Saône and Rhône rivers, and continued on the Petit Rhône, the canal Rhône à Sète, and through the middle of the étangs, or saltwater lakes near the Mediterranean. We have sailed about halfway down the Canal du Midi where we are now moored in Carcassonne for a week. There is a lot of catching up to do, 668 kilometers, and 61 locks worth!
At the end of the Saône river, which we had sailed before, we spent a wonderful week in one of our favorite cities, Lyon. There we enjoyed a visit from our Belgian friends, John and Josiane, and loved touring the old city with it’s traboules, or medieval silk houses, and their winding passage ways, and being gourmands at the many Bouchons, or lyonnais versions of brasseries. We love the port de pleasance at Lyon, which even though it was not yet open for the season allowed us to moor at the pontoons and get water and electricity. The port is at the confluence of the Rhône and the Saône, in the middle of a modern part of the city with interesting apartments and great shopping. It is closed until the first of May, but it seems that boats had been moored there all winter, with free water and electricity. It was funny to watch them all quickly depart by the morning of May 1st, so that they wouldn’t have to pay anything for the mooring.
The Rhône River
After our week in lovely Lyon, we quickly descended the Rhône river, and I mean quickly! It only took a week to cover 361 kilometers, since with the current we went between 15 and 18 kilometers an hour instead of our normal 8. It was our first time on the Rhône and I was nervous about it because we had heard so many stories of its strong currents and fierce winds. It was such a different experience for us since we are used to slow meandering navigation along the canals, and there were times when I got a few more gray hairs, such as when the strong wind buffeted us around as we waited for the huge locks, pushing us towards the big metal pylons meant for the huge barges and not small pleasure boats like ours. Also the mistral (the famous wind of Provence) was in full force when we tried to moor at Aigues Mortes and we were pushed away from the pontoon, and blown about. That was frightening, but luckily a good samaritan boater helped us tie up. The locks on the Rhône were a different experience for us, too. They were immense, and could fit at least four huge commercial barges, with quite a few boats our size at the same time. We went through the deepest lock of Europe on the Rhone, the Bollene lock of 22 meters, which was quite impressive, but by then we were used to these immense locks . Going through the locks is the only time that we have ever worn our life jackets, since they are required on the Rhône. Tying up to the bollards on these locks is easy because they have floating bollards which follow you up and down the lock so that you don’t have to change to another bollard as you ascend or descend the lock. Most of the locks were remotely operated, which I found unusual since they are so huge, and we had to call a half an hour ahead to let them know we were coming so that they could get the lock ready for us. Even though there were some harrowing experiences, we thought that navigating on the Rhône was relaxing and a nice break from the canals that often have so many locks. We would only have one or two locks a day on the Rhône, (instead of the usual 10 to 20 on the canals) and since we went early in the season, we didn’t have to wait too long for the locks. Since there were no small bridges, we could keep the top up and stay out of the elements. The river was very wide, but the scenery was still beautiful. Most of the hills along the river were covered with vineyards for the Côtes de Rhône wines, which means wines from the hillsides along the Rhône. One of our favorite stops along the Rhône was to visit Châteauneuf du Pape where the most famous Côtes de Rhône wines are made. We also loved Avignon, which is known for it’s Palais de Papes where the French popes lived and people danced upon the Pont d’Avignon.
After our week in lovely Lyon, we quickly descended the Rhône river, and I mean quickly! It only took a week to cover 361 kilometers, since with the current we went between 15 and 18 kilometers an hour instead of our normal 8. It was our first time on the Rhône and I was nervous about it because we had heard so many stories of its strong currents and fierce winds. It was such a different experience for us since we are used to slow meandering navigation along the canals, and there were times when I got a few more gray hairs, such as when the strong wind buffeted us around as we waited for the huge locks, pushing us towards the big metal pylons meant for the huge barges and not small pleasure boats like ours. Also the mistral (the famous wind of Provence) was in full force when we tried to moor at Aigues Mortes and we were pushed away from the pontoon, and blown about. That was frightening, but luckily a good samaritan boater helped us tie up. The locks on the Rhône were a different experience for us, too. They were immense, and could fit at least four huge commercial barges, with quite a few boats our size at the same time. We went through the deepest lock of Europe on the Rhone, the Bollene lock of 22 meters, which was quite impressive, but by then we were used to these immense locks . Going through the locks is the only time that we have ever worn our life jackets, since they are required on the Rhône. Tying up to the bollards on these locks is easy because they have floating bollards which follow you up and down the lock so that you don’t have to change to another bollard as you ascend or descend the lock. Most of the locks were remotely operated, which I found unusual since they are so huge, and we had to call a half an hour ahead to let them know we were coming so that they could get the lock ready for us. Even though there were some harrowing experiences, we thought that navigating on the Rhône was relaxing and a nice break from the canals that often have so many locks. We would only have one or two locks a day on the Rhône, (instead of the usual 10 to 20 on the canals) and since we went early in the season, we didn’t have to wait too long for the locks. Since there were no small bridges, we could keep the top up and stay out of the elements. The river was very wide, but the scenery was still beautiful. Most of the hills along the river were covered with vineyards for the Côtes de Rhône wines, which means wines from the hillsides along the Rhône. One of our favorite stops along the Rhône was to visit Châteauneuf du Pape where the most famous Côtes de Rhône wines are made. We also loved Avignon, which is known for it’s Palais de Papes where the French popes lived and people danced upon the Pont d’Avignon.
Les Étangs, or salt water lakes on the Med
We continued to the Petit Rhône, a smaller river that allows you to travel from the Rhône westward toward Sète and the canal Rhône à Sète. In the middle of a mistral wind we tied up at Aigues Mortes on the Mediterranean. What a difference for us compared to our travels in Burgundy and the Ardennes! The architecture is completely different, as well as the plants and trees, wildlife, food and culture. Now we see palm trees everywhere, and the kinds of plants and flowers that I grew up with in Southern California. Whereas Burgundy cuisine features Charolais beef, duck, and escargots, in Provence, and Languedoc we see a lot more fish on the menu. Although wine, cheese and bread are found in every region, the cheese, and types of wine vary, too. This is one thing that I love about France. Every region is very different from the other, and there are a lot of types of land and climate, like in the United States, and all of it is beautiful!
We saw wild white horses and pink flamingos along the étangs, and visited the salt ponds and production facilities at Aigues Mortes. Sail boats outnumbered our type of motor boat by far.
We crossed the Étang de Thau along the Mediterranean, which was quite an unusual experience. We went through a narrow channel like a canal, but on both sides of us we saw huge salt water lakes or étangs and felt as if we were sailing in a canal in the middle of the sea.
The ports on the Étang de Thau were full, so we continued past the farm beds for mussels and oysters to find the entrance to the Canal du Midi between two light houses.
We continued to the Petit Rhône, a smaller river that allows you to travel from the Rhône westward toward Sète and the canal Rhône à Sète. In the middle of a mistral wind we tied up at Aigues Mortes on the Mediterranean. What a difference for us compared to our travels in Burgundy and the Ardennes! The architecture is completely different, as well as the plants and trees, wildlife, food and culture. Now we see palm trees everywhere, and the kinds of plants and flowers that I grew up with in Southern California. Whereas Burgundy cuisine features Charolais beef, duck, and escargots, in Provence, and Languedoc we see a lot more fish on the menu. Although wine, cheese and bread are found in every region, the cheese, and types of wine vary, too. This is one thing that I love about France. Every region is very different from the other, and there are a lot of types of land and climate, like in the United States, and all of it is beautiful!
We saw wild white horses and pink flamingos along the étangs, and visited the salt ponds and production facilities at Aigues Mortes. Sail boats outnumbered our type of motor boat by far.
We crossed the Étang de Thau along the Mediterranean, which was quite an unusual experience. We went through a narrow channel like a canal, but on both sides of us we saw huge salt water lakes or étangs and felt as if we were sailing in a canal in the middle of the sea.
The ports on the Étang de Thau were full, so we continued past the farm beds for mussels and oysters to find the entrance to the Canal du Midi between two light houses.
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The Canal du Midi
The Canal du Midi was an important destination for us, one that we had dreamed of visiting since we dreamed of buying a boat. One of our criteria in buying our boat was that it should be able to fit under the Capestang bridge, which is one of the shortest bridges in France. The Canal du Midi is the most famous canal system in France because it is the oldest canal system, built in the 1600’s rather than the 1800’s like the rest of the canals of France, and is considered one of the greatest construction works of it’s time. Originally built to connect the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, (actually to the Garonne which flows into the Atlantic) it is a UNESCO world heritage site because of its unusual architectural elements and important feats of engineering. It was designed by the famous Pierre Paul Riquet, during the reign of Louis XIV. The canal is fed by the lac de Saint-Ferréol, which was the largest man made lake and dam of its time. Another of the engineering marvels that we experienced on the Canal du Midi is the Chaine de Fonserannes, a beautiful chain of 8 basins and 9 gates that climbs 22 meters. Another surprise for us was the three locks of Fresquel with two double locks joined by a basin where boats can be coming from both sides of the canal, and pass each other in the holding basin. Besides the very low Capestang bridge, there are many other beautiful and unusual bridges in its 241 kilometers, and many canal bridges, (the first canal bridge was made on the Canal du Midi). The whole idea of being in a boat on a bridge over a river is amazing. The Canal du Midi is also known for the beautiful plane trees that line its banks. The tops of the trees meet to create a cathedral ceiling effect, and refreshing shade in the heat of the summer. However, a lot of these plane trees died because of a disease, and you see stumps of trees that were cut down, which is very sad. The VNF has planted hundreds of plane trees to try to restore the charm of this canal, but they will take many years to grow to bring back the majesty of the canal’s former times
It isn’t always as peaceful on the Canal du Midi as our life was on the canals in other parts of France. We came in spring to get here before the crowds because it is a popular destination for boaters like us and renters in the summer, and we heard that it can become like a bumper boat ride, and you have to wait in line for all the locks. By coming in May we thought we would beat the summer crowds, but there already were a lot of renters, and it has been difficult at times avoiding being hit in the locks, or having boats trying to moor next to us who don’t have a clue what they are doing. When we are tied up along the banks these rental boats often go way too fast and create a wake that pulls our pickets (stakes) out of the ground. (Our boat would start floating out into the canal if we weren’t there to prevent this). The boat renters also destroy the banks of the canal by going too fast and creating big wakes. There are many signs posted along the canal to remind you to go only 8 kilometers an hour to preserve the canal, but they speed past doing at least 12. They don’t understand that cruising the canals is supposed to be relaxing and peaceful.
Our dear friends, Ann and Dave met us in Béziers on our fifth day on the Canal du Midi, and we had a great time with them stopping at little restaurants along the canal, taking walks or bike rides on the footpaths of the canal, tasting wine, and enjoying the beautiful scenery at a very slow and peaceful pace. We said goodbye to them at Carcassonne where the train station is conveniently located across from the port, and we are excited for our next guests, my sister and her husband who come this Sunday. With them we will finish our next length of the Canal du Midi. The canal ends in Toulouse, la ville rose, the city of rose colored buildings, and cassoulet! Ooh là là!
More pictures below.
À bientôt, mes amis.
The Canal du Midi was an important destination for us, one that we had dreamed of visiting since we dreamed of buying a boat. One of our criteria in buying our boat was that it should be able to fit under the Capestang bridge, which is one of the shortest bridges in France. The Canal du Midi is the most famous canal system in France because it is the oldest canal system, built in the 1600’s rather than the 1800’s like the rest of the canals of France, and is considered one of the greatest construction works of it’s time. Originally built to connect the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, (actually to the Garonne which flows into the Atlantic) it is a UNESCO world heritage site because of its unusual architectural elements and important feats of engineering. It was designed by the famous Pierre Paul Riquet, during the reign of Louis XIV. The canal is fed by the lac de Saint-Ferréol, which was the largest man made lake and dam of its time. Another of the engineering marvels that we experienced on the Canal du Midi is the Chaine de Fonserannes, a beautiful chain of 8 basins and 9 gates that climbs 22 meters. Another surprise for us was the three locks of Fresquel with two double locks joined by a basin where boats can be coming from both sides of the canal, and pass each other in the holding basin. Besides the very low Capestang bridge, there are many other beautiful and unusual bridges in its 241 kilometers, and many canal bridges, (the first canal bridge was made on the Canal du Midi). The whole idea of being in a boat on a bridge over a river is amazing. The Canal du Midi is also known for the beautiful plane trees that line its banks. The tops of the trees meet to create a cathedral ceiling effect, and refreshing shade in the heat of the summer. However, a lot of these plane trees died because of a disease, and you see stumps of trees that were cut down, which is very sad. The VNF has planted hundreds of plane trees to try to restore the charm of this canal, but they will take many years to grow to bring back the majesty of the canal’s former times
It isn’t always as peaceful on the Canal du Midi as our life was on the canals in other parts of France. We came in spring to get here before the crowds because it is a popular destination for boaters like us and renters in the summer, and we heard that it can become like a bumper boat ride, and you have to wait in line for all the locks. By coming in May we thought we would beat the summer crowds, but there already were a lot of renters, and it has been difficult at times avoiding being hit in the locks, or having boats trying to moor next to us who don’t have a clue what they are doing. When we are tied up along the banks these rental boats often go way too fast and create a wake that pulls our pickets (stakes) out of the ground. (Our boat would start floating out into the canal if we weren’t there to prevent this). The boat renters also destroy the banks of the canal by going too fast and creating big wakes. There are many signs posted along the canal to remind you to go only 8 kilometers an hour to preserve the canal, but they speed past doing at least 12. They don’t understand that cruising the canals is supposed to be relaxing and peaceful.
Our dear friends, Ann and Dave met us in Béziers on our fifth day on the Canal du Midi, and we had a great time with them stopping at little restaurants along the canal, taking walks or bike rides on the footpaths of the canal, tasting wine, and enjoying the beautiful scenery at a very slow and peaceful pace. We said goodbye to them at Carcassonne where the train station is conveniently located across from the port, and we are excited for our next guests, my sister and her husband who come this Sunday. With them we will finish our next length of the Canal du Midi. The canal ends in Toulouse, la ville rose, the city of rose colored buildings, and cassoulet! Ooh là là!
More pictures below.
À bientôt, mes amis.
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